The Jormungandr Amplifier
October 19/2025: Preorders are not officially open, but by request we have opened up the option to preorder now and get a jump on the wait times. Build times will be considerably less than the 51-Filthy Amplifiers as most of the needed parts are now in stock on our shelves.
Coming as early as Christmas 2025, the Jormungandr is our newest creation that's very loosely based on the Diezel VH4. With tighter bass response, more gain than ever via the Brutal control and a linear, transparent Master Volume control that lets you easily get the most out of the post-tonestack gain stage. What does this mean to you? Typically this is part of what you're hearing with any amp that apparently "needs to be turned up loud". The Preamp Volume feeds into another gain stage, clipping the signal further which adds more gain, more warmth and more smoothness.
With zero added frills, the Jormungandr 300watt Class D Amplifier is ready to give you one thing: TONE!
Don't let the brutal nature of this amp fool you though, because of the added preamp controls, brutal and nasty tones are just one small part of what it can do.
Preamp Section
Pre: This is the pregain control. It could also be referred to as just the Gain or even Distortion. While you may picture this amp as being a one-note-pony, it can actually be surprisingly versatile. On the lower end of the dial you will find a light crunchy breakup. A full-on crunch is typical around Noon and above that is where the saturation starts to happen. Going further up, you will get close to maximum saturation at about 3oclock, with the maximum being at maximum. Keep in mind that just like a tube amp, the highest settings will seriously saturate the signal and you will lose some of the apparent "tightness". It's also worth mentioning that these are starting points and not exactly where you will find the setting you're looking for, simply due to the huge variety in pickups, string gauge, playing style, etc.
Treble: The classic treble control. The higher you go, the brighter and more attack you'll find. Depending on your speaker and the other settings, going too high can give you what's referred to as "fizz" but certain amounts of this are typically what you want to cut through in a mix. Start low and keep turning it up until you hear the sound you want.
Mid: This could also safely be called a "shape control" as it does the most serious shaping of the overall tone. Take things all the way from a totally scooped 90's solid state head, to the upper mid presence of a 5150, to the warmth of an old Marshall. There's no wrong setting. Just close your eyes and start turning!
Bass: We kept a fairly narrow range on this control to avoid what we would consider "bad" settings, but you will find it sitting somewhere between the 51-Filthy and SPEC-Defier as far as the overall low end.
Brutal: Not enough gain at bedroom levels? Feel like every amp is a little too wimpy or sterile? Then start turning up the Brutal control to hear things get nasty very quickly. Start with this control at minimum and find the sweet spot. This control is very interactive with the Gain control.
Post: The Post Gain control is also just called the Volume on an amp that doesn't feature a Master Volume control. What it actually is, is the preamp section volume control. If you're running a noise gate in the effects loop and finding it's clamping too hard, it's better to turn this volume up to a higher level. On the Jormungandr versus our other amps, you will find that raising this control adds more gain and "warmth". This is not a placebo, you are actually hearing that! The Jormungandr features a post-tonestack gain stage that distorts when then volume is pushed. This results in a cleaner, colder and even dare we say it, "djentier" tone at lower settings and dirty, growlier, smoother tones at higher settings. Looking for some Rock tones? Crank the volume up and start with the Gain and Brutal controls at 9 o'clock. You can thank us later.
Power Amplifier Section
Presence: This is the same in function to what you would find on any amplifier, but with a handful of differences. Rather than altering the negative feedback loop, this Presence control is a combination of a passive treble bleed and an active eq.
Resonance: This is also known as Depth depending on what part of the world you live in. It is essentially a low end control for dialing in the thickness/"meat" of your tone. We fine tuned it to help capture some of the "feel" of a thumping 4x12 cab at low volumes. Crank it up and hear how massive your tone gets!
Voice: This shapes the mid frequency voicing of the amp by way of the upper mids. This can even help with some added presence to cut through a dense mix, or compensate for extreme scooping in the earlier stages of the amp.
Master: The Master Volume controls the overall volume of the entire amplifier. Since the power amplifier section is Class D, the tone is the EXACT SAME at every setting. This allows you to have the same tones at bedroom level volumes. Any and all tonal changes you hear at loud volumes you're hearing are from the speakers being pushed, the resonance of the cabinet, the interaction between the two and more.
Output Section:
Wattage: The Jormungandr Amplifier features a maintenance free 300Watt Class D power amplifier section. No tubes to replace, no day to day tonal changes. The general rule of thumb with Class D is that the power is halved when doubling the impedance. This isn't totally set in stone, especially when considering the audible output and not just numbers. For example, here at the shop we've achieved 125db from the 60watt Lindworm with conservative settings.
300watts- 4ohm load
150watts- 8ohm load
75watts- 16ohm load
No special switching needed to change cab impedance, but it MUST be powered OFF when plugging or unplugging a speaker cabinet.
The typical 2x12 will be 8ohms and the typical 4x12 will be either 8 or 16ohm. These can be safely run in parallel to achieve more power and there are tons of impedance calculators out there. Who doesn't love the thought of 300watts screaming out of a pair of 4x12's?
Power
The Jormungandr Amplifier accepts universal mains and can be run at 100-240volts.
Size/Format
The Jormungandr Amplifier is housed in a 3U half width rack enclosure. You can omit the rack hardware if you plan to put it on top of your speaker cab and save a few bucks. It is approximately 9"x8"x5.5"
Why Not?
"Why not add a noise gate?" you may be asking. There are two main reasons. First, we feel its a waste of both our money and yours! The ONE thing people say about built in noise gates is "it's okay but I just use the one I already had". Then there's the fact that if we had a worthwhile replacement for the Hades Gate, it would have existed long before any amps were in development!
"Why not a full width rack enclosure?" There is literally only one reason for this: The full width parts won't fit in our UV printer. Airis Effects is still after over a decade, a one-man operation so everything is produced in smaller batches. In order to be able to offer any sort of different format, the initial investment as well as the MUCH higher final selling price just isn't feasible at this time without some sort of Mark Cuban style investment of capital.
Coming as early as Christmas 2025, the Jormungandr is our newest creation that's very loosely based on the Diezel VH4. With tighter bass response, more gain than ever via the Brutal control and a linear, transparent Master Volume control that lets you easily get the most out of the post-tonestack gain stage. What does this mean to you? Typically this is part of what you're hearing with any amp that apparently "needs to be turned up loud". The Preamp Volume feeds into another gain stage, clipping the signal further which adds more gain, more warmth and more smoothness.
With zero added frills, the Jormungandr 300watt Class D Amplifier is ready to give you one thing: TONE!
Don't let the brutal nature of this amp fool you though, because of the added preamp controls, brutal and nasty tones are just one small part of what it can do.
Preamp Section
Pre: This is the pregain control. It could also be referred to as just the Gain or even Distortion. While you may picture this amp as being a one-note-pony, it can actually be surprisingly versatile. On the lower end of the dial you will find a light crunchy breakup. A full-on crunch is typical around Noon and above that is where the saturation starts to happen. Going further up, you will get close to maximum saturation at about 3oclock, with the maximum being at maximum. Keep in mind that just like a tube amp, the highest settings will seriously saturate the signal and you will lose some of the apparent "tightness". It's also worth mentioning that these are starting points and not exactly where you will find the setting you're looking for, simply due to the huge variety in pickups, string gauge, playing style, etc.
Treble: The classic treble control. The higher you go, the brighter and more attack you'll find. Depending on your speaker and the other settings, going too high can give you what's referred to as "fizz" but certain amounts of this are typically what you want to cut through in a mix. Start low and keep turning it up until you hear the sound you want.
Mid: This could also safely be called a "shape control" as it does the most serious shaping of the overall tone. Take things all the way from a totally scooped 90's solid state head, to the upper mid presence of a 5150, to the warmth of an old Marshall. There's no wrong setting. Just close your eyes and start turning!
Bass: We kept a fairly narrow range on this control to avoid what we would consider "bad" settings, but you will find it sitting somewhere between the 51-Filthy and SPEC-Defier as far as the overall low end.
Brutal: Not enough gain at bedroom levels? Feel like every amp is a little too wimpy or sterile? Then start turning up the Brutal control to hear things get nasty very quickly. Start with this control at minimum and find the sweet spot. This control is very interactive with the Gain control.
Post: The Post Gain control is also just called the Volume on an amp that doesn't feature a Master Volume control. What it actually is, is the preamp section volume control. If you're running a noise gate in the effects loop and finding it's clamping too hard, it's better to turn this volume up to a higher level. On the Jormungandr versus our other amps, you will find that raising this control adds more gain and "warmth". This is not a placebo, you are actually hearing that! The Jormungandr features a post-tonestack gain stage that distorts when then volume is pushed. This results in a cleaner, colder and even dare we say it, "djentier" tone at lower settings and dirty, growlier, smoother tones at higher settings. Looking for some Rock tones? Crank the volume up and start with the Gain and Brutal controls at 9 o'clock. You can thank us later.
Power Amplifier Section
Presence: This is the same in function to what you would find on any amplifier, but with a handful of differences. Rather than altering the negative feedback loop, this Presence control is a combination of a passive treble bleed and an active eq.
Resonance: This is also known as Depth depending on what part of the world you live in. It is essentially a low end control for dialing in the thickness/"meat" of your tone. We fine tuned it to help capture some of the "feel" of a thumping 4x12 cab at low volumes. Crank it up and hear how massive your tone gets!
Voice: This shapes the mid frequency voicing of the amp by way of the upper mids. This can even help with some added presence to cut through a dense mix, or compensate for extreme scooping in the earlier stages of the amp.
Master: The Master Volume controls the overall volume of the entire amplifier. Since the power amplifier section is Class D, the tone is the EXACT SAME at every setting. This allows you to have the same tones at bedroom level volumes. Any and all tonal changes you hear at loud volumes you're hearing are from the speakers being pushed, the resonance of the cabinet, the interaction between the two and more.
Output Section:
Wattage: The Jormungandr Amplifier features a maintenance free 300Watt Class D power amplifier section. No tubes to replace, no day to day tonal changes. The general rule of thumb with Class D is that the power is halved when doubling the impedance. This isn't totally set in stone, especially when considering the audible output and not just numbers. For example, here at the shop we've achieved 125db from the 60watt Lindworm with conservative settings.
300watts- 4ohm load
150watts- 8ohm load
75watts- 16ohm load
No special switching needed to change cab impedance, but it MUST be powered OFF when plugging or unplugging a speaker cabinet.
The typical 2x12 will be 8ohms and the typical 4x12 will be either 8 or 16ohm. These can be safely run in parallel to achieve more power and there are tons of impedance calculators out there. Who doesn't love the thought of 300watts screaming out of a pair of 4x12's?
Power
The Jormungandr Amplifier accepts universal mains and can be run at 100-240volts.
Size/Format
The Jormungandr Amplifier is housed in a 3U half width rack enclosure. You can omit the rack hardware if you plan to put it on top of your speaker cab and save a few bucks. It is approximately 9"x8"x5.5"
Why Not?
"Why not add a noise gate?" you may be asking. There are two main reasons. First, we feel its a waste of both our money and yours! The ONE thing people say about built in noise gates is "it's okay but I just use the one I already had". Then there's the fact that if we had a worthwhile replacement for the Hades Gate, it would have existed long before any amps were in development!
"Why not a full width rack enclosure?" There is literally only one reason for this: The full width parts won't fit in our UV printer. Airis Effects is still after over a decade, a one-man operation so everything is produced in smaller batches. In order to be able to offer any sort of different format, the initial investment as well as the MUCH higher final selling price just isn't feasible at this time without some sort of Mark Cuban style investment of capital.